Sirbaz Khan‘s achievement, who writes himself in history books as being the first Pakistani to top all 14 world peaks over 8,000 meters. The last victory he achieved was on October 4, 2024, after achieving a mountain height of 8,027 meters on the Shishapangma peak, located entirely in Tibet.
From Aliabad in the Hunza Valley, he began his inspiring journey in 2017 by conquering Nanga Parbat, the deadliest mountain in the world. His conquest of Nanga Parbat paved the way for an ambitious effort to climb all eight thousanders around the world. With the passage of years, the tenacious and skillful Khan faced some of the toughest peaks on this earth.
Among the great achievements of Khan are some of the summits he successfully conquered, most prominently being K2 in July 2018 and Lhotse in May 2019. Among his commendable achievements, he was the first Pakistani to conquer Lhotse standing at 8,516 meters. His conquest of Broad Peak, in July 2019, marked out one of his styles as he climbed the mountain without supplementary oxygen. Later the same year he also climbed Manaslu, also to 8,163 meters, and became only the second Pakistani to ever do so.
He never gave up and became the first Pakistani to summit Annapurna, one of the most dangerous mountains on earth, in April 2021. Just a month later, Khan summited Mount Everest, the world’s tallest mountain, with its towering height of 8,849 meters. Another great milestone was achieved through his Everest ascension, which added to an already superb career.
Once more, in July 2021, he was back in the limelight, when he along with the all-Pakistan team, reached the top of Gasherbrum II cementing his position as one of the top leaders in high altitudes in mountaineering. The next month he became the first Pakistani to reach Dhaulagiri 8,167 meters in height, in October 2021.
And it was not only Mount Everest that Khan was to conquer in 2022 – summiting Kangchenjunga in May and Makalu later in the month earned him the status of the first Pakistani to conquer these giants. His relentless pursuit of excellence was to culminate in another achievement in August 2022, when he stood atop Gasherbrum I for his 12th ascent of an eight-thousander.
Such notable successes for him in 2023 include the Cho Oyu summit, where he strengthened further in mountaineering. Now after Shishapangma’s conquering, the journey is complete as he summited all 14 highest mountains in the world.
What makes this journey exceptional is the fact that Khan successfully climbed 11 of these mountains using supplemental oxygen, which displays great skill and willpower.
He has been hailed at the national level, but he is also an inspiration to mountain climbers all over the world. His undisputed spirit, greatest possible preparation, and ability to endure the toughest of conditions, which may include freezing temperatures and deadly avalanches, are a representation of the main spirit of mountaineering.
Secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP), Karrar Haidri, hailed the achievement: “This great feat gives an insight into passion and dedication toward mountaineering as an activity. His success is not only a victory to him but inspirational to mountain climbers across the world.”.
Truly, the mountaineering world is honored by Khan’s efforts as a tribute to the late Pakistani mountaineer, Muhammad Ali Sadpara.
The great feats of Sirbaz Khan have shaped his place in the heart of mountaineering history and continue to motivate successive generations to reach for their dreams’ heights. As he confronts and continues to endure the ordeals of mountain climbing at advanced altitudes, his journey stands as a great reminder of the unyielding capabilities of the human spirit.
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